I’ve been off for the past week, so this blog has obviously been on a hiatus. I had a busy and far-ranging travel schedule, but one of the places I visited at the end of the week was a tourist attraction very close to home, a place I’d never been to before. In fact, I didn’t even know exactly where it was.
The place was Kykuit, the home of oil baron John D. Rockefeller and three subsequent generations of the great Rockefeller clan.
I’m not sure why I went, to tell you the truth. I mean, there’s no water slide at Kykuit. Nor is there a money bin to dive into naked to get that special feeling of what it’s like to be filthy rich. You can’t play “Rich Guy” and order a robotic butler around. Nothin like that. There isn’t even a gift shop.
Kykuit isn’t that kind of place.
It’s really a museum of “stuff,” mostly exotic and/or modern art collected by Nelson Rockefeller, the late governor of New York and one of five brothers in the family’s third generation.
But I figured, Kykuit is like the Statue of Liberty. Sooner or later, you just gotta go there.
After all, Rockefeller, the patriarch, was the richest American who ever lived. He made his dough in oil and like most of the robber barons of his era he built his fortune with ruthless, monopolistic zeal that enabled him to squash all his competitors like bugs. Dollar for dollar, this cold fish of a tycoon, who nearly lived to be 100, beats out modern-day zillionaires like Bill Gates and Warren Buffet.
The story goes that he gave out shiny dimes to the children of Pocantico Hills, which I forgot to mentions is where Kykuit is situated atop a 500-foot hill. The word “Kykuit” is a Dutch word that means high place, and indeed the six-story mansion is so high up that the houses and commercial buildings of Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow in the valley below are dwarfed by the trees and made invisible. From the vantage point of the rear veranda, the Rockefellers had a panoramic view of the Hudson River, framed by sky and a vast canopy of green.
It cost 23 bucks a ticket to take the basic tour, which includes the first floor, the surrounding garden and the coach house. I liked our tour guide. She was a very nice woman, who knew her stuff.
But the experience was a bit too girly for me, a self-admitted Philistine when it comes to art and expensive place settings. You’re not going to get a lot of history here, or for that matter, any Rockefeller family gossip. If you want to know about Teddy Roosevelt’s trust-busting exploits and battles to break up Standard Oil, or insights on class differences in the early 20th century and the rise of the anarchist movement, go somewhere else.
I found some relief in the coach house, which features several surreys, which the old titan loved to ride around in. His nostalgic affection for horse-drawn transportation struck me as ironic considering he was the guy who almost single-handedly put us on an oil-based economy.
The coach house had a number of antique cars, including a Model T and a 1918 Caddy. There was also on display a Datsun compact that Nelson
bought after seeing it at the 1964-65 Worlds Fair. I guess it was a farily unique car for its time since it was a Japanese import before Japanese autos became a factor in the decline of General Motors, et. al, but today that little red car looks like a cheap piece of junk from the crappy mid-60s.
Fascinating.